Buenos Aires
After attending a Conference in Buenos Aires, I stayed on for a few days to try to discover more of the city. This is a place that wears its heart on its sleeve, that is vibrantly proud of what it is, and after a few days I realised that one word kept coming into my mind, touching on every aspect of the city.
Unashamedly.
Let’s look at why that word kept creeping into my mind as I explored the place; let’s touch upon a few highlights of the city.
La Boca is, well, unashamedly colourful – with its street murals and multi-coloured corrugated houses along El Caminito, the main street of La Boca. It’s a gaudy, but charmingly tacky place, and here also is the Boca Juniors stadium, where the guides who show you around are unashamedly passionate about their stadium and their team.
Close by is San Telmo, one of the oldest areas of the city. This is an area of antique shops, and cafes, and on a weekend an unashamedly eclectic mix of stalls selling art, trinkets, junk and souvenirs. Its lively, and it’s worth spending half a day just browsing amongst the market, and the street performers.
Just up the road is Plaza De Mayo with the Casa Rosada, the palace from the balcony of which Eva and Juan Peron would address huge crowds. Its unashamedly pink. Here the mothers of the ‘disparacedos’ - those who disappeared during the brutal dictatorship years - still march every Thursday, unashamedly determined to keep memories alive.
Fancy a rest and a coffee? Not far away is Café Tortoni, arguably the most famous of Buenos Aries’ coffee houses. You must queue to get in, but inside it is unashamedly ornate and over the top. Try churros here, along with your coffee.
The Poles
On many people’s bucket list, the Antarctic does not boast a very varied landscape; nearly all of it is covered by ice, but isolation is the buzz here. It’s a and of extremes –with the lowest lowest temperatures on earth – minus 60 is common in the interior. Researching the area for a visit it became clear you need to travel on an ice-strengthened vessel, you need time to both research your trip and then to make the journey. time, careful planning is needed to link up flights and a ship and to get the best out of the area you need something of a dis-regard for cost.
Where to start from? From the west its Ushuaia or Punta Arenas; from the east its Hobart Australia or Bluff, New Zealand. Flights to western sub-Antarctic islands are a quicker way to taste the continent in a week.
Antarctic wildlife includes the Arctic Tern, humpback whales, 20 million breeding penguins, Albatross and the Weddell Seal.
So, what about looking at the Arctic? How does it compare with the Antarctic?
There are some definite points in the area’s favour. Primarily it’s easier to get to. Its basically a frozen sea, accessible when the ice melts and its not as isolated as Antarctica, with 8 countries within the Arctic region. It’s warmer, has more culture and more history. Whilst there are some difficult goals – the North Pole being the obvious one – it’s possible to just drive the Arctic circle. And there’s a greater variety of wildlife, including 19 sub-species of polar bears.
The Northern Lights can be seen if you are between 60 and 72 degrees North. Its best to be there between November and January, and the best sightings are between 10pm and 2am.
The people aspect of the Arctic is another draw: the Chukchi in Russia and Inuvialuit in Canada, and the Sami, the indigenous people of the Lapland area. The latter still herd their reindeer and you can follow the reindeer migration with them in spring.
On board ship there are early autumn cruises to spot polar bears in the Russian Arctic. From a cruise ship you can see the Arctic wildlife including the Arctic Tern, polar bears, narwhals, Walrus, and humpback whales, The Arctic cruise season starts in May; several described in outline in Boar-rides we like. Its difficult to choose, but the Arctic seems the place to start, but eventually the lure of the sheer isolation of Antarctica is going to pull.
India
India has always been a favourite destination for both of us over the last thirty years. It’s a land with so much variety to offer; away from the obvious places there are numerous small boutique and often off-beat little places to head for, and interesting activities to include in an India visit. Here are a few of what we have found lately:
In north India we found a Safari Lodge, some 6 kms from main gate of Corbett National Park, with over 200 tigers. Set in some 13 acres, the property – a 2 km drive from the entrance gate - has just 12 A/C cottages; and boasts 8 luxury cottages. Great for a 3 night stay; they have their own safari jeeps and naturalist guides… try the sunrise drive, or have high tea on the banks of the Kosi River.
Or if you prefer to look for tigers at Ranthambore we came across a small lodge, only 4 kms from the nearest Gate into the Reserve, and with just 16 rooms; 10 of them superior rooms with private garden. There’s a pool and a spa of course. The place is ideal for a 2 night stay.
Near Jaipur we found the hotel, some 15 kms out of Jaipur on the Agra road where they filmed The Best Marigold Hotel. With just 23 rooms; it’s still run by the family who originally lived there, so you can have a chat with a member of the family whilst your Dinner is cooking.
Near to Jodphur… In Narla village, midway between Jodphur and Udaipur is another old Palace, from where guests can take excursions to see leopard, go birdwatching, or visit local villages by jeep. Also the hotel owner owns a number of vintage cars in which guests can go for a joyride if the fancy takes them – a neat twist. The place has conference facilities for a small, bijou Conference, if you want to combine business with pleasure.
In East India on the banks of the Ganges, next to the main Ghat, in Varanasi, we found a 280 year old Palace and Fort, now a Heritage Hotel. Transfers from airport involve a boat as access to property is by river. Interestingly the property boasts India’s oldest elevator. There are just 30 rooms, all with Ganges views. Ironically the smallest room in the hotel is the most sought after, since it has a 360 view as it is in an old turret; it is much in demand.
In Calcutta we found a new property; it opens in Nov 2017. With just 9 suites it’s a new-build property, not a converted Palace, but is perfectly situated, as it looks onto the Victoria Memorial on Charanghee St…
Up in Darjeeling we discovered a small boutique property, some 3.5 hours from Bagdogra airport. Situated on a 16,000 acre tea estate, it lies 1 hr east of Darjeeling, with Kalimpong just 2 hours away.…. There are only 2 bungalows, each with 4 rooms, a total of just 8 rooms. Guests have full use of a car for excursions and can tour the tea plantation, hike with views of Kanchenjunga, or even walk over a bridge to Sikkim(tho you can’t actually enter Sikkim; just look over at the end of the bridge). With 60 staff for 16 guests the service here is outstanding.
In Central India we found a lodge just near the Muki Gate of Kanha Reserve, with it’s some 100 tigers plus cubs…there are just 12 cottages, a spa, and a pool. They offer guests night walks on the property… You can reach the property by air into Jabalpur or Ranchi; both approx. 4 hour drive. If it’s lodges close to Game Parks you want, we found lodges at Bandahavgar, Panna and Pench as well as Kanha We particularly liked the Tree House property near Bandhavgarh or there is another Tree House property near Pench (where there is also a Reserve with some 50 tigers). And there is a trekking route between Pench and Kanha covering some 180 kms, in 3 days. It’s a great experience but be aware the facilities in camp are rather basic with no electricity
Down in South India we found in Kerala a resort with a difference. Just 30 mins from Kochi airport, on banks of the Chalakudy River this is a working organic farm of 30 acres. With village visits and classes in cooking and yoga, it’s a new place, having opened in 2017. There are just 20 rooms plus 4 cottages; the 4 cottages are deluxe. Interestingly there are no vehicles allowed here; bullock carts are used for transport on the property…
Or in Tamil Nadu, some 45 kms from Trivandrum and ideal for a 2-3 night stay is a property of some 15 acres but situated on a working Rubber plantation of some 1000 acres. Excursions to Kanyakumari take a little over an hour, to Alleppey and its’ houseboats some 4.5 hours, and Madurai is 5 hrs. With just 21 cottages, on the lakeshore, the place has conference rooms, seating 100 theatre style or 70 banquet style if you want to combine business with pleasure. There are 2 ‘pool-villas’ with private garden and pool, and several other standards of accommodation. For exercise there are sunrise and sunset walks, yoga and cookery lessons, whilst hiking, cycling, birdwatching are all possible at this property.
Some 90 kms from Calicut airport, in the Wayanad area is another property with a difference, situated amongst 150 acres of coffee and peppers. The hotel grounds cover some 10 acres and there are and 5 treehouses, each 30 feet up in 90 foot trees…4 pool villas have a glass floor over their private pool on which is laid out the living area.
And if you fancy going off-shore and off-beat, why not fly out to the Andaman Islands. There you will find what has been described as Asia’s finest white sand beach, and, hidden in the trees behind the beach, is a Resort property, set in some 25 acres. We are on Havelock island, some 80 sq kms in size. Away from Port Blair the capital, this is perhaps the most popular of the some 572 islands, which make up the Andamans; 36 are inhabited and rest are protected national parks. Relaxing on the beach is an obvious activity, but treks, village visits, kayaking, scuba diving and Game Fishing are all also on offer. This place has the best of both worlds – it’s way off the usual tourist routes, but yet there are a surprising number of flights to the Andamans every day, from Delhi and several other places.
That’s some of the things we like about India at the moment…
D and M Travel Design is a trading name of Lightline Pilgrimages Ltd, holder of ATOL number 9693.